Pole Pole
Pole Pole Is A Small Lodge Situated On The Eastern Side Of Mafia Island Overlooking Chole Bay.
Pole Pole means “slowly slowly” in Swahili and this perfectly describes the character of this small and laid back lodge. Life here is unhurried and simple. The lodge is well established on the island and offers comfortable accommodation in bungalows built from local materials, which blend into the hillside overlooking the waters of Chole Bay. The service is personal, warm and friendly. Situated overlooking the Mafia Marine Park, the lodge offers excellent access to diving, along with a range of snorkelling and island trips. If you’re looking for a calm and comfortable base to experience the charm of Mafia and its natural beauty, Pole Pole is a great choice.
Rooms
Accommodation is offered in 12 comfortable bungalows and suites, raised off the ground on wooden platforms and covered in makuti (palm) thatch. There are five standard Bahari Bungalows, two Asali Family Bungalows and five suites. Each bungalow has a furnished verandah to the fore with comfortable chairs and a daybed, and en suite shower and toilet facilities to the rear. The Asali Family Bungalows each have a second, smaller twin bedroom, separated from the main bedroom by a hallway, and both bedrooms share the bathroom. One of the suites (Alasiri Family Suite) also accommodates four guests in two bedrooms, but the main bedroom is larger with a sitting area, so ideal for families who need a little more space. There are three Jua Seaview Suites, all located on the hillside with wonderful views over Chole Bay. The final suite (Alfajiri Suite) is located on the beach front and accommodates two guests in a master bedroom with dressing area. All of the suites are designed with high ceilings and include large furnished verandahs with private plunge pools. There is air-conditioning and fans in all rooms. All rooms also make use of the lodge’s phyto-purification plant which processes and treats wastewater to prevent environmental pollution
Central Areas
The central bar and dining areas are multi-level and also raised on decking under thatch. Internet access is available at the reception only (connections may be intermittent). There is a lovely swimming pool with a sun deck and a small laidback spa offering a range of massages. Pole Pole has a small sandy beach. The food served at the property has an Italian influence and real effort is put into serving homemade and local produce. Mealtimes are flexible, there is no set breakfast time, and at 18h00 each day a waiter will come to your room and take your sundowner drinks order.
Facilities
Wi-Fi – Yes
Power for Charging – Yes
Swimming Pool – Yes
Habitat and Wildlife
Mafia Island lies to the south of Dar es Salaam (opposite the mouth of the Rufiji River) and is an unspoilt, little visited alternative to Zanzibar. The archipelago is actually made up of four major islands, Mafia itself, Chole, Jiobondo and Juani, and is better known for its fantastic scuba diving and whale shark snorkelling, rather than its beaches. In comparison to Zanzibar, it is extremely poor with little infrastructure aside from the few beach properties.
Most of the diving takes place in the Chole Bay area which is a protected marine park with a good diversity of corals (over 48 genera) and reef fish (some 400 species currently identified). All of Mafia’s reefs are at depths of less than 30 metres, making it a great location for all levels of divers and snorkellers. Diving in the bay area is available in most weather conditions but is better between mid-September and mid-March when the winds are calmer. The Kinasi Pass (6 to 26 metres) is a well-known dive destination a short boat trip away where the sea enters Chole Bay. Other sites within the bay include the Kinasi Wall (8 to 21m) and its extension, the Chole Wall (up to 15 m), the shallow Coral Gardens (also good for snorkelling) and The Pinnacle (up to 24m). Outside the bay, the Dindini Wall, Jina Pass, and the Mange and Kitutia reefs can also be visited.
Between September and August humpback whales can be seen in the waters to the south of Mafia. Between around October/November through to March whale sharks grace the waters off the west coast of Mafia and a number of operators organise boat trips to swim with these gentle giants. Please be aware that there have been instances where operators have not conducted whale shark trips with ethical responsibility to the marine environment – please ensure you are booking with a reputable operator who can offer responsible marine encounters.
Activities
There is a wide range of water and land activities available from Pole Pole. One activity per person per day is included from the following: snorkelling trip (including equipment), a sunset cruise, a picnic on the beautiful Marimbani sandbank which appears at low tide, a snorkel trip including lunch on Miewe Island (a small islet on the north-eastern side of Chole Bay), a visit to the Kua Ruins on Juani Island, a Chole Island walk, a tour of Utende Village (excluding a village levy) and a trip to the ‘blue lagoon’ on the south of Juani Island.
Additional activities and excursions are available at additional cost and these include scuba diving (including PADI courses) which can be booked with the dive centre just a short walk from the lodge. Other activities include whale shark snorkelling (seasonal – approximately November to March), a trip to watch humpback whales (in season, usually between August and September), a full day trip to the Mange sandbank, a turtle hatching experience (June to September) and a trip to the lighthouse on the northern most tip of the island. Please note that water activities are all subject to tidal fluctuations and weather conditions and therefore can only be booked on arrival.
Seasons
Pole Pole’s opening dates change slightly each year, but it is usually closed throughout most of April and all of May. Late June to October are the driest months to visit so ideal if relaxation is your main priority. The best diving conditions are between mid-September and mid-March when the winds are calmer and the whale shark season is from around October/November until March.
Pole Pole accepts children from the age of six years and the Asali Family Bungalows, Alasiri Family Suite or Jua Suites offer perfect family accommodation options. Pole Pole, however, is very peaceful and low key and likes to preserve its tranquil atmosphere and therefore is not the most obvious choice for those travelling with young children. The lodge is better suited for adults or those travelling with older children who want a laid back holiday focusing on exploring the island and ocean.
When staying at Pole Pole, all guests pay a Mafia Island Marine Park fee which plays a direct role in protecting the island’s fragile ecosystems. These funds support essential conservation work such as ranger patrols to prevent illegal fishing, monitoring of coral reefs and marine species, and the management of protected habitats like mangroves. By contributing financially, your stay helps to maintain Mafia’s biodiversity and ensures that the rich marine life is safeguarded for the future, while also promoting sustainable use of marine resources by local communities.
Most of the food served is organically grown and bought on the island to help fishermen and farmers benefit from tourism development. The lodge also employs and trains staff from local villages.
