I have recently returned from an eight-night trip travelling from south to north through Kafue National Park. Kafue is a destination I had been looking forward to going to for a long time and it really did not disappoint. I witnessed some of the most memorable wildlife sightings I’ve ever had (in particular lions) and enjoyed incredible diversity throughout the park, both in terms of landscape and wildlife.
I also really appreciated that Kafue can be a standalone safari destination on its own for the more intrepid traveller, or it can form part of a more extensive Zambia trip. A fantastic Zambia safari will often include the wildlife-dense South Luangwa and the aesthetically stunning Lower Zambezi, but I wanted to explore the question: “why should you also include Kafue in a Zambia safari”?
What was best about my safari in Kafue, Zambia:
1. Size and Remoteness
The first most striking factor about Kafue National Park is its sheer size. It is one of the biggest national parks in Africa, – around 22,500 square kilometres which is a little larger than Wales (or the state of New Jersey), and it really does feel vast.
In addition to the enormous amount of space it occupies, Kafue has refreshingly few safari camps in relation to its size – a rare and relatively undeveloped gem in Africa. It feels remote and wild. You are certainly far from the madding crowd here. Access is by shared charter air transfer, private charter or a fairly lengthy road transfer from either Lusaka (to central Kafue) or Livingstone (to southern Kafue). There are also scheduled flights to the central Kafue sector but these operate just a few times a week.
2. Diverse Habitats
Due to its size, Kafue National Park is incredibly diverse. The Nanzhila Plains in the south are the best area to see cheetah in Zambia whilst the beautiful lake shore of Lake Itezhi-tezhi is dotted with puku, lechwe and thirsty elephants. Different safari camps have a very different feel according to where they’re located.
KaingU Safari Lodge, for example, is situated on the Kafue River overlooking scenic, boulder strewn rapids and the boat cruises here have a very different feel to the central part of the park where the river is much wider. In the central sector, you may see herds of elephants on the banks of the river as you enjoy a gentle boat cruise. Around Musekese Camp, north of the central sector, you may be lucky enough to see leopard on the banks of the river.
Finally in the north, you’ll find the spectacular Busanga Plains – an area of seasonal grasslands and open savannah. It has a feel of the open plains of the Serengeti (without the numbers of vehicles) and are some of the most breathtaking open plains I have ever seen in Africa. The light, with the haze at sunset or the mist in the mornings in the winter, make it a truly stunning place to view wildlife.
Busanga is extremely seasonal. Early in the season (June to mid August) flood waters cover the plains and some camps offer only boat cruises. This is an excellent time for birding and the chance to see the Busanga lions hunting lechwe in the water. Later in the season (July to October) the plains teem with game and very relaxed lions.
3. Wildlife
I would not suggest Kafue if prime wildlife viewing is an absolute priority. It does not have dense populations of wildlife (with the exception of herds of lechwe and puku and lions in the Busanga Plains in the north). The sheer size of the park means the wildlife is more sparsely scattered and, in some cases, not used to vehicles so can be prone to running away.
However, you really can have some incredible sightings. In the south I watched five male cheetahs being chased away by a single lion. In central Kafue, I had close encounters with hippos on the boat cruises and watched two lionesses hunt a reedbuck. And on the Busanga Plains, I had countless truly breathtaking lion sightings, as well as more cheetah and some elephants enjoying some of the little water that was left. We also saw four bush pigs on a night drive, a very relaxed African wild cat and an African finfoot!
4. Spectacular Busanga Plains
I think I do have to emphasise in just how spectacular the Busanga Plains are in particular. The lions are fat and healthy – the prey is so plentiful that they hardly have to work to make a kill. The guides often joked that if you put these lions in the South Luangwa, they wouldn’t survive. The lack of cover on the open plains means that the lions use the vehicles for shade in the heat of the day, so you really do get very close encounters.
As well as the relaxed lions, Busanga Plains is one of the best places in Zambia to see cheetah (the other being the southern plains of Kafue). You do still have to work hard to see them, but you have a good chance. I saw them once during my four nights there. The photography opportunities are plentiful with such open landscape. Busanga is also easily one of the best places in Africa to see the majestic sable and roan antelopes. They emerge from the surrounding woodland for a drink and make their way across the plains. Occasionally, if you are very lucky, wild dogs may also appear from the woodland, on the lookout for some prey. The sunsets on the Busanga Plains are also some of the most extraordinary African sunsets I have experienced… and that is saying something!
5. Exclusivity
Another reason to travel to Kafue is the exclusivity of the wildlife viewing. It’s a national park, but I never shared a sighting with more than two other vehicles throughout my entire eight days there, and the majority of the time I was the only vehicle. So you can enjoy levels of exclusivity that are similar to a Botswana safari experience, without the same price tag.
6. Friendliness of the Zambian People
Wherever you are on safari in Africa, you are always well looked after and welcomed by smiling faces, but I think there is something special about Zambian hospitality. The warmth of the welcome, the easy fireside chats, the sense of humour – I felt so at home in Zambia. A few of the lodges are still genuinely owner run which make them all the more personal and charming. Andrea and Caterina at Konkamoya Lodge will welcome you with open arms and offer an Italian twist on hospitality. Steve and Cindy at Nanzhila Safaris are passionate about their bush camp experience and at KaingU Safari Lodge you’ll be warmly looked after by Julia and Gil. There’s also something about your fellow travellers; people who have made the effort to get to Kafue are likely to be of similar mind with a shared priority and affection for nature and the wilderness, rather than luxury accommodation, fine wines and ticking off the big game!
Many Reasons for Kafue
Whilst Kafue National Park may not compete with the South Luangwa or the Lower Zambezi for premier wildlife viewing, it definitely has its own charm and delights. Being harder to get to, means less people get there! Those who do make the effort will be rewarded with an undeveloped wilderness, worthy of visiting in its own right, with a wide variety of landscapes and species. The Busanga Plains are a real highlight, I’ll remember the lion sightings and the sunsets there for a long time. Kafue would also compliment a safari including the South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi, making an incredible Zambia itinerary.
Find out everything you need to know about Zambia in our destinations guide.
Frances stayed at Tongabezi Lodge, Nanzhila Plains Camp, Konkamoya Lodge, KaingU Safari Lodge, Ila Safari Lodge, Ntemwa Bush Camp, Busanga Bush Camp and Chisa Busanga Camp.
Frances visited Chundukwa River Lodge, Nanzhila Lake Camp, Kasabushi Camp, Mukambi Safari Lodge, Musekese Camp, Wilderness Shumba, Kasonso Busanga and Mukambi Busanga Plains.
