There’s something quietly exhilarating about setting off on foot into the bush, knowing your camp is already moving ahead of you… carried by camels! My time with Karisia Walking Safaris in northern Kenya’s Laikipia region offered a rare chance to strip back the safari experience to its essentials, with nothing but canvas between me and the wilderness.
I spent two nights with Karisia – one in a fly camp deep in the bush, and one at the semi-permanent Tumaren Camp.
What is Fly Camping?
Fly camping generally is a term used for an experience that uses a very light footprint camp to allow you to explore the furthest reaches of wilderness, and enjoy the freedom of being completely off grid. The camp will use lightweight, mobile tents designed to move easily through remote terrain. Depending on the camp, it could be used as more adventurous ‘camp out’ from a main camp or lodge; or, for the ultimate experience, fly camps can be used as part of a walking safari, with the location changing daily to give you the opportunity to explore new areas. Karisia offers fly camping for as many nights as suits, with camels used to porter everything (tents, bedding, food and water) between locations. This style of safari places you in direct contact with the outdoors – quiet, simple and far from distraction. So whilst fly camping is not about luxurious accommodation, it does offer a rare and different kind of luxury.
What is the accommodation and food like with Karisia?
Karisia has two levels of fly camps – Air BnC (the slightly more basic option – ‘Air, Bed & Camel’!) or Classic. I stayed in the ‘classic’ option. My tent was a classic Meru-style canvas shelter, with a mattress on the ground (you can opt for a stretcher bed but it does take up more space), fresh crisp sheets, pillows and duvet. I also had a bedside table and solar light. On the ‘verandah’ was a chair, table, mirror and canvas wash basin, all of which were lovely touches. The bathroom facilities included a ‘short drop’ toilet set up a discreet distance away, as well as a separate traditional bucket style ‘safari’ shower.
The communal area was a shaded canvas tarpaulin, all open sided, with some mats, table and chairs. There are a few large cushions on the floor should you wish to lay and relax with a breeze during the heat of the day.
Food is simple fare, but very tasty. With a very basic bush ‘kitchen’ consisting of an open fire, I enjoyed homemade pizza for lunch, chicken curry with rice for dinner and fresh fruit and eggs to order for breakfast!
What does a typical day with Karisia entail?
Karisia’s passion is walking and allowing guests to immerse themselves in the wilderness. You are guided by excellent local Samburu, Maasai, and Turkana locals which is very rewarding as not only do you benefit from their superb wildlife knowledge, but you also gain an authentic, first hand insight to their local culture. Their passion for wildlife, conservation and their homeland is infectious and a highlight of the experience with Karisia.
Your morning walks are generally quite long, walking anywhere between eight and 14 kilometres to the next ‘fly camp’. That said, the walks can be flexible, and plenty of camels are taken not only to transport the camp, but you too if you get a little tired! Do bear in mind that you are walking at altitude over uneven terrain with frequent stops to view wildlife, birds, tracks and scenery, so you can be walking for four to six hours.
You generally arrive into camp around lunchtime – lunch will be ready once you have been shown your tent and settled in. Afternoons are usually ‘siesta time’ when you can relax, snooze, read a book, or simply soak up serenity of the bush from the comfort of your verandah or the main area.
As the afternoon advances and heat recedes, tea, coffee and homemade biscuits or cake are served for that post siesta ‘pick me up’ before setting off with your guides for a gentle walk. Afternoon walks tend to be a couple of hours spent exploring the vicinity of the new campsite. At the end of our afternoon walk, we climbed a kopje (large rock) behind our camp where I enjoyed an ice cold gin and tonic with a spectacular view.
You head back to camp before dusk and the camp team arrange your ‘bucket shower’ to the perfect temperature. Again, little things such as body wash, shampoo and a robe for you to walk from your shower back to your tent are lovely touches. Feeling very refreshed, you head to the central area where a campfire is lit and you can enjoy a glass of wine or cold beer chatting to your camp team and listening to their fascinating stories.
I was early to bed after a long day and felt very content lying there listening to hyena calls echoing across the valley. I felt both connected with the surroundings and completely at ease. There was no phone signal, no nearby roads, just the sounds of the bush. There are very few occasions in life where one gets to truly switch off and disconnect and fly camping really delivers this experience.
Mornings start with an early wakeup call with warm water delivered to your tent for a refreshing wash. Enjoy a coffee and breakfast as the first light of the day starts to emerge, before setting off on your next adventure…
What is Tumaran Camp?
Tumaren Camp is Karisia Walking Safari’s permanent tented base, situated east of the Ewaso Nyiro River. After a fly camping experience, Tumaren felt like a small oasis! The camp overlooks a waterhole which is bustling with zebra, giraffe, Guinea fowl and oryx throughout the day.
Compared to the simplicity of a fly camp, it feels like the most luxurious hotel you have ever stayed in! The spacious, open fronted tents are incredibly comfortable with sofa as well as bed, and again have beautiful and thoughtful touches such as flowers in your tent; and there’s an en-suite bathroom with double vanity, loo and shower.
The camp features a rather spectacular swimming pool which is the perfect spot to relax during the day and where a lunch of fresh salads and homemade bread is served. For those who want to ‘reconnect’ with the world, Wi-Fi is accessible at the end of the camp, quite a walk away (intentionally!).
Why book a walking tour in Laikipia?
Karisia Walking Safaris operates in eastern Laikipia, a stretch of semiarid savannah and rocky hills north of Mount Kenya. This is not Big Five territory in the conventional sense – but that’s part of the appeal. This is a place for those who want to feel the luxury of space, silence and raw nature. The area is accessible by light aircraft transfer to nearby airstrips like Nanyuki, Loisaba or Lekurruki; or by road if you’re looking to incorporate this into a road trip.
Walks take place on private and community-owned land, often with no other travellers in sight. The local guides are skilled and confident, and Karisia has built longstanding relationships with the communities who own the land they walk through.
What else can you do?
Karisia’s safaris are not just about walking. Camel trekking is a big part of the experience – ride or walk alongside them, either way they carry your kit. You can climb granite outcrops, try catch and release fishing in seasonal rivers, or simply sit quietly and watch the bush unfold. The guiding is exceptional, with a strong focus on tracking, birding and conservation and there’s plenty of authentic ways to experience the local culture too – Samburu traditions are woven into the experience without feeling staged.
For families, it’s wonderfully hands on. Kids can learn to throw spears, follow tracks, or play frisbee with local schoolchildren. It’s active, educational and deeply engaging – something different to the usual lodge and game drive routine.
Why Karisia Walking Safaris?
What Karisia offers is not just a safari, but a way to step out of daily life and into the wilderness – slowly, quietly and with intention. The pace is different, the landscapes vast and the wildlife subtle but steady. You feel part of nature and not just an observer.
The beauty of this experience is the raw wilderness, exclusivity and chance to really switch off. No phones, just the sounds of the bush and being surrounded by the most warm and hospitable team of guides and locals.
A safari with Karisia makes you appreciate that water is a luxury, that simple food can be incredibly satisfying, and that community and wildlife learning to live alongside one other are essential for successful conservation.
There really is something so special about taking in the African wildlife at this slower and more detailed pace without the noise of a vehicle. The other huge benefit of being on foot, is being able to connect with and learn about the smaller elements of the bush – the plant and insect life, something that can be overlooked on game drives.
With modern day life becoming increasingly stressful, Karisia offers a rare chance for total digital detox – surely that’s the most luxurious thing you can experience in our modern day world? Being surrounded by nature and culture that blows your mind means that within a matter of hours social media and unanswered emails are forgotten! I felt rejuvenated after two days and wished I could have stayed much longer. I wasn’t ready to go back into the world. I would encourage anyone to book a minimum of four nights.
So if you’re looking to completely escape from the modern world, connect with nature, be immersed in remote wilderness, have meaningful connections with local people, and perhaps even push yourself slightly out of your comfort zone, fly camping is an unbeatable experience.
If you’ve been inspired by Michele’s fly camping experience and would like to know more, or how to plan a fly camping experience into a safari, our friendly team of experts would be delighted to help you plan your perfect journey. Call us on +44 (0) 1787 888590 to discuss your requirements, or email us via our Contact Us page.
