For a lot of people, when they think of Kenya, the place that first comes to mind is the Masai Mara. But to come to Kenya and not explore the central Laikipia plateau and northern Samburulands would be to miss out on diverse landscapes, incredible cultural experiences and of course wonderful wildlife, with the added bonus of seeing some species and sub-species not found, or much harder to find, in the Mara.
Rolling hills and big game of the Lewa Conservancy
My recent trip started on the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, a vast area of open grasslands flanked by beautiful rolling hills. There is a strong emphasis on conservation on Lewa, as well as neighbouring ranches such as Borana, and they have become leading areas in which to find black rhino and the endangered Grevy zebra of which there are now estimated to be less than 2,500 left on the planet.
The conservancy is situated on an important migratory route for elephants as they escape the searing heat in the north and move to the cooler climes of Mount Kenya before returning when the heavy rains set in. Their presence is both a blessing and a curse. Seeing these wonderful creatures in the wild and in such larger numbers is a highlight for anyone. However, they can also cause enormous damage, particularly with their destruction of trees which can transform areas of woodlands into grasslands thus depriving other species of their natural habitats. In order to protect some of the woodland habitat, the conservancy has set up exclusion zones surrounded by elephant proof fences which still allow other, smaller species to pass through quite freely. Even the giraffes have learnt how to tip toe through the electrified strands! The reality is that, if determined enough, an elephant could force its way in, but thus far the scheme has been a success with pockets of dense woodland allowed to thrive with towering yellow bark acacias providing a habitat for numerous species, including the notoriously shy leopards.
The 60,000 acre conservancy is home to six properties, each with their own character and it was good to finally get to stay at Lewa House where I was hosted by owners Sophie and Calum MacFarlane; and to revisit Lewa Wilderness, a long standing Safari Consultants’ favourite, where I was updated on their plans for a new exclusive use camp to be opened this year.
One of the things I really enjoy about the more northerly reserves in Kenya, and why I believe they work so well in combination with the Masai Mara where the focus is almost entirely on game viewing, is the variety of available activities. Visiting Lewa HQ to learn more about the conservation efforts, excursions to the beautiful Ngare Ndare Forest where you can follow the aerial walk through the tree canopy or swim in the crystal clear rivers, or view wildlife from horseback are all options open to guests at all of the camps.
Another dimension, which was really reinforced to me on this trip, is the incredible cultural enrichment that staying in northern Kenya can add to your stay.
Changing landscapes of the Rift Valley
Air travel is definitely the most time efficient way to get around Kenya, but the occasional road transfer is a great way to get a different insight into the country. Leaving Borana Conservancy by road, I passed through the fertile lands of the Great Rift Valley province, passing through extensive farmlands and hundreds of greenhouses where roses are grown for export to Europe. As the road headed north, ultimately to Ethiopia, we passed first through the town of Isiolo and then through the settlement of Archers Post and both the landscape and people changed along the way. As we moved into Samburuland, the landscape was initially flat and arid with free roaming camels, but the further north we travelled the more mountains we saw including the imposing Mount Ololokwe, the sacred mountain of the Samburu people.
Orphaned elephants at RETETI elephant sanctuary
My destination was the Mathews Range of mountains where I was to spend two nights, staying at the two camps operated by Sarara. There is wildlife in this area, though less concentrated than elsewhere, and the recent unseasonal rains had dispersed the wildlife further, with the exception of large numbers of reticulated giraffes. Staying in the Mathews though is about so much more than the wildlife; it is also an introduction into the lifestyle of the Samburu (known as the Butterfly People due to their colourful attire) and the properties here are a shining example of community led tourism.
The camps, Sarara Camp and Sarara Treehouses, plus the exclusive use Reteti House, are all owned by the community, and they provide vital employment in a region which is otherwise devoid of working opportunities. The management and staff are almost exclusively from within the surrounding Namanyuk concession, and their sense of pride is tangible, not only in the camps they operate but also in the projects that have been developed to further support the community. These projects include mobile schools which move when the pastoralist families of their students move and the excellent Milk to Market Programme. The latter was created during the Covid pandemic to supply the nearby Reteti Elephant Sanctuary, Africa’s first community owned elephant sanctuary, with a much needed supply of goats milk for their orphans. Not only have the orphans subsequently thrived, but the Samburu women who tend to the goat herds have become more financially independent while improved land management and animal husbandry will rehabilitate the surrounding rangelands.
A visit to the sanctuary is a ‘must do’ when staying at Sarara – what is more joyful than witnessing the raucous excitement and squabbles of baby elephants at feeding time? This can be fitted in between a visit to a local Samburu manyatta, day and night time game drives, gentle nature walks, challenging hikes, horse riding or camping out in the bush, to name but a few of the activities available – all of which combine to make a stay here an unbelievably diverse experience.
LARGE ELEPHANT HERDS IN SAMBURU NATIONAL RESERVE
The Samburu National Reserve is one of the smaller but, in my view, one of the prettiest game viewing areas in Kenya. Surrounded by mountains and bisected by the Ewaso Nyiro River, the reserve hosts an impressive array of wildlife including Reticulated giraffes, Beisa oryx and the strange looking, long necked gerenuk. However, it is best known for its large herds of elephants, and it did not disappoint. Having departed from Saruni Samburu on an early morning game drive in to the reserve, we had an elephant filled morning. We firstly enjoyed around half an hour with a small herd enjoying the fruits that a passing troop of baboons had shaken from the palm trees and which they were reluctantly having to share. Later, a second herd provided dramatic entertainment in the riverbed as the females protected one of their younger members from unwanted attention from a young bull. However many times you come across elephants, there is always a different story being played out amongst the herd. Travelling in the shoulder season meant that the Samburu Reserve was quieter than it can be, and it was a pleasure to share our sighting with only a handful of other vehicles.
Guests wanting to concentrate on wildlife viewing can stay within the park at Elephant Bedroom Camp or the recently re-launched Larsens Camp which boasts an impressive photographic hide. Outside of the reserve one can stay at Saruni Samburu which has surely one of the best views of any camp in Kenya, or Sasaab which combines luxurious sophistication with wildlife and culture.
CULTURAL EXPERIENCE WITH THE SAMBURU WARRIORS
As I arrived at Sasaab, I was told that all the guests had been invited to the village that evening as there was a special blessing for the warriors – the first to have been held in 10 years. Initially reluctant to join as I am not a great fan of ‘village visits’, I am so glad that I decided to go as it was the most authentic and organic visit I have experienced. The impressive, colourful, young warriors chanted and danced with dour faces which at first appeared almost menacing until it was explained that they are strictly forbidden to smile or laugh. The children were adorable and over excited to see photos of themselves on camera, but it was the mamas that I most enjoyed meeting. They have an aura of quiet strength and dignity as well as pride as they generously showed me their homes. It was also heartwarming to see them no less excited than their children to have their photos taken!
Whilst most lodges in the area offer a balance of game viewing and culture, Ol Lentille is particularly perfect for those seeking an in depth cultural interaction. Set on the edge of the Laikipia escarpment and blessed with exceptional views over the mountains, the lodge is truly immersed into the life of the four neighboring communities and would be an ideal location for anyone wanting to combine some rest and relaxation with some wonderful walking opportunities in spectacular landscapes, matched with immersive cultural experiences.
Prolific game-viewing in Ol Pejeta Conservancy
My last stop was the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, an exceptionally rewarding game viewing area – second only to the Masai Mara within Kenya in terms of wildlife concentrations. From entering through the Ol Pejeta Conservancy gate through to Kicheche Laikipia, a drive of around 35 minutes, I had excellent sightings of at least 13 different species. This prolific game viewing was replicated throughout my stay as I visited The River Camp which opened only a few weeks before I arrived, and spent time with long time Safari Consultants’ friends Andy and Sonja Webb at their lovely Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages.
Central and northern Kenya definitely has a different feel to the game laden plains of the Masai Mara, which is why it is such a good idea to combine both areas on any itinerary. The wildlife is always going to be the key attraction but there is an expression that says ‘I came to Kenya to see the wildlife and left having met the people’ and this certainly held true for me. Whether it be the Samburu, the Maasai or any one of the other 40 or so tribes within Kenya, spending time with and getting to know the Kenyan people adds a wonderful dimension to your stay.
Mary stayed at Lewa House, Borana Lodge, Sarara Camp, Sarara Treehouses, Saruni Samburu, Sasaab, Ol Lentille and Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages.
Mary visited Lewa Wilderness, Kifaru, Sirikoi, Laragia House, Reteti House, Elephant Bedroom Camp, Larsens Camp, Kimanjo, Kicheche Laikipia, Sanctuary Tambarare and River Camp.
