It has been quite a few years since I have had the pleasure of going on safari in Zambia, and to say I have fond memories is an understatement, so I was eagerly anticipating this visit! On my most recent adventure, I found myself in the heart of South Luangwa and over seven nights I was able to traverse the whole park from north to south (more than once actually!). To end my safari, I took a short flight to the Lower Zambezi, where my pace slowed a little and I was able to soak up my surrounds over three nights.
I often think that Zambia can be overlooked as a safari destination in favour of its arguably more famous neighbours, but this hidden gem is a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. With its vast wilderness, stunning landscapes and rich biodiversity, Zambia offers some of the most authentic safari experiences on the continent. Among its crown jewels are South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi National Parks, where you can immerse yourself in the breathtaking beauty of nature. These parks offer unparalleled opportunities for wildlife viewing, making them a must-visit for any safari lover.
Land of the Leopard
Both South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi are renowned for their high density of leopards, making them two of the very best places in Africa to observe these elusive big cats. One particularly memorable sighting I had was of a leopard in the northern sector of South Luangwa at Lion Camp, he was feeding on a buffalo and was cautiously (and quite grudgingly) sharing it with a hyena. Once they had both eaten to bursting point, they simply laid down in the shade only a few metres apart…. A little snarling ensued, but our guide explained that they were both far too full to really care about each other, so it was nothing but token bluster!
It’s not just the quality of the sightings that sets these parks apart, it’s the astounding volume of leopards that they have. A perfect example of this is one afternoon I spent in the Lower Zambezi. About an hour after heading out on a game drive, we came across a beautiful female leopard walking along in the open. We followed her for some distance, before she stopped by some rocks and laid down, after a short while we realised that she had hidden a tiny cub amongst rocks, presumably while she went off to hunt. We waited patiently and were rewarded by a very quick glimpse of the cub who can’t have been more than a few months old. We decided to leave them in peace and headed off as the sun was starting to set. Not more than 15 minutes later we came across two more leopards who were cautiously watching each other, and as our guide explained, likely preparing to mate. It was then time to head back for the evening but as we approached the road into Old Mondoro Camp in the Lower Zambezi, our guide quietly cut the engine and directed his spotlight into the tree above us. There, literally a few metres above our heads, was a huge male leopard who was happily feasting on an impala…. Or what was left of one at least! So in under three hours I had four exceptional leopard sightings, (in fact five if you count my “blink and you’ll miss it” sighting of the tiny cub).
Elephants for Breakfast
It’s not just leopards that Zambia has in abundance, along with excellent general game viewing, the sheer number of elephants in both parks is staggering, they are everywhere! Every game drive delivered numerous families of elephant, almost all of them with babies or sub adults, leaving me in no doubt that the population is going to continue to thrive. One of my very favourite things on safari is to spend time watching elephants, they are simply fascinating, and you can actually see them processing information and problem solving. With so many young ones about, the bond between mothers and their calves is heartwarming to witness and something that never fails to move me. On one afternoon drive we were looking into a thicket of trees and saw two huge adult females seemingly just standing around. On closer inspection, we saw a crumpled pile of something grey at their feet, this actually turned out to be two babies who couldn’t have been more than a year old; they were a tangle of limbs and completely out for the count! Our guide explained that the babies were sleeping, and that the adults would stand as they were for a good few hours until the little ones had rested enough to continue on.
In these parks, having elephants in and around your camp is also not unusual, in fact it is more usual than not. Twice in South Luangwa I was late for morning coffee because I couldn’t leave my room, I just had to wait quietly until my elephant visitors decided to move on and the watchman on duty signalled that it was safe for me to come out. On another occasion in the Lower Zambezi, we had a huge bull elephant just stroll silently into breakfast……we all quietly abandoned our toast and beat a hasty retreat to a safer spot until he decided to go and explore elsewhere!
Hide and Seek
Another element that I love about a safari in Zambia, is that so many of the lodges have very active viewing hides that you can visit. They are strategically placed to offer incredible wildlife sightings without disturbing the animals, and they are a great place to while away a few hours during siesta times. From numerous antelope species, to hippos, crocs and a myriad of birds flitting around, the hides allow for intimate encounters that are hard to replicate elsewhere. I spent a wonderful hour in one of the hides in South Luangwa, where I watched a variety of wildlife come to drink. The highlight of the day was three huge hippos who were struggling to get comfortable on a bank just above the hide. Hippos are not renowned for their friendliness, however by being in the hide I was able to watch them completely unobtrusively from just a few metres away!
In sum, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi National Parks offer an incredible safari experience, particularly for wildlife enthusiasts eager to see leopards and elephants in abundance. The combination of stunning landscapes and the variety of ecosystems makes these parks a top choice for anyone looking to explore the wonders of the African wilderness.
Kelly stayed at:
Latitude 15, Tena Tena Camp, Kafunta River Lodge, Bilimungwe, Lion Camp, Mwamba Camp, Tafika Camp, Big Lagoon – Trails Camp, Chula Island Camp, Old Mondoro and Chiawa.
Kelly visited:
Ciela Resort, Nsefu Camp, Luangwa Safari House, Nkwali Camp, Robin’s House, Puku Ridge, Kuyenda, Chamilandu, Chindeni, Kapamba, Zungulila, Kukaya, Mfuwe Lodge, Directors House, Kiango Camp, Kutali Camp, Anabezi Camp, Time + Tide Chongwe Camp and Time + Tide Chongwe House.
If you’d like to plan your own safari to get close to nature South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi in Zambia, we’d be delighted to help. Please call our friendly team of experts on +44 (0) 1787 888590 to discuss your requirements, or email us via our Contact Us page
