There are many incredible marine experiences to be had off the coast of Africa. From diving with great white sharks in South Africa’s Cape, exploring the incredible reefs of the Bazaruto Archipelago in Mozambique and taking in the sunset on an East African dhow. However, one of the more special encounters is to swim with whale sharks off Mafia Island – something which I’ve been fortunate enough to experience very recently.
Mafia is a lesser known Indian Ocean island off the coast of Tanzania, south of Dar es Salaam and the spice island of Zanzibar. The tourism industry and infrastructure here is less developed than on Zanzibar, which means it offers an off the beaten track Indian Ocean experience, with far fewer tourists. As soon as you land on the island, you feel the pace slow down.
A large part of the Mafia archipelago is protected within the Mafia Island Marine Park and the island’s pristine ocean is a huge draw for visitors. The fantastic diversity of coral and reef fish brings those looking for first-class diving and snorkelling and impressive marine life. I spent two nights on Mafia, which gave me chance to explore the island as well as partake in one of its most sought after experiences – viewing whale sharks. The whale sharks thrive in the Mafia channel due to the nutrient and plankton rich waters; a result of both the marine park protection and location opposite the Rufiji River delta on Tanzania’s mainland.
Aside from its stunning Marine life, Mafia has a fascinating history and its colonial past and ancient trade route heritage attracts those interested in culture and architecture.
When is the best time to see whale sharks?
The pattern of the whale sharks has changed over the last 10 or so years and conservation research is still ongoing to try to understand them better. It was interesting chatting with the local guides who told me there have been subtle changes in the ocean currents which have led to more favourable feeding conditions, and as a result they can be seen all year round.
Their numbers vary throughout the year and the more traditional viewing time of November through to March is still the most reliable time for sightings. During this window conditions are optimal and the whale sharks come to the surface more frequently in the shallow waters on the western side of Mafia Island making them easier to find.
With snorkels and fins, you jump into the open ocean to catch sight of the sharks underwater. Out of nowhere they suddenly appear with their blue-grey colour, vivid spots and huge mouths. Their size varies, usually growing to around nine metres in length (although they can reach up to 20 metres!). Despite their size, whale sharks are gentle giants and are filter feeders, so pose no threat to humans. They calmly and nonchalantly swim past, as they feed on plankton and with a flick of the tail they disappear.
A guide accompanies you in the water, leading you in search of the whale sharks. The boats stay nearby, so you have the option to get in and out of the water as needed. Viewing the whale sharks from above in the boat gives an added perspective.
The length of time you spend with the whale sharks really depends on the group, but all in all the excursion lasts around two hours.
The best place to stay for seeing whale sharks
On Mafia Island there are just a handful of accommodation options. There are two lodges we would recommend – Butiama Beach Lodge and Pole Pole Bungalows.
Both are simple, but comfortable laid-back beach lodges. Butiama is located close to Kilindoni, so is very convenient for viewing whale sharks.
Pole Pole Bungalows is on the southern side of the island on Chole Bay, inside the Mafia Island Marine Park, and offers a slightly quieter stay. The beaches around Chole Bay are not as picturesque as other areas of the island, with more mangroves, but the diving and snorkelling in Chole Bay is the best on the island. Excursions to see whale sharks are also possible.
How to get to Mafia Island
Access to Mafia Island is more limited than to Zanzibar, which is one of the reasons tourist numbers are lower. Both Coastal Air and Auric Air offer daily scheduled light aircraft flights to Mafia Island from the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater in the north of Tanzania, as well as the parks of Nyerere and Ruaha in the south, all connecting through Dar es Salaam, so it can be combined with a safari in Tanzania.
If spotting whale sharks is on your wildlife bucket list, Mafia Island is a fabulous destination to consider. It’s pristine, protected waters mean that sightings are reliable with a relaxed and intimate experience possible. Mafia is not the most sophisticated destination and you won’t find any polished five star resorts here; but if you’re looking for an off the beaten track destination, with laid back charms and characterful accommodation, this would be the perfect base for your marine adventure. The world class diving and snorkelling add another dimension for ocean lovers; or combine time on Mafia Island with an awe-inspiring East African safari for the ultimate wildlife experience.
Dolphins of Fanjove
In addition to this incredible experience with the whale sharks, I also had the privilege of snorkelling with a playful pod of bottlenose dolphins on nearby Fanjove island (south of Mafia). I can’t recommend this experience highly enough as swimming with dolphins and whale sharks is exhilarating, immersing yourself in the beauty and wonder of their world. It was another incredible highlight, so below are some images and video footage that I wanted to share as an added bonus.
If you’re inspired to spot whale sharks, or experience the pristine waters of Mafia Island, our friendly team of experts would be delighted to help you plan the perfect journey. Call us on +44 (0) 1787 888590 to discuss your requirements, or email us via our Contact Us page.
