We Compare The Best Of These Safari Giants
The vast open plains of East Africa are perhaps the most iconic of all Africa’s safari landscapes. This quintessential ‘Out of Africa’ backdrop is blessed with spectacular wildlife, famed in particular for its Great Migration and big cat populations, while being home to the rich and colourful Maasai culture.
Jostling for position as the prime East African plains wildlife destination are the Serengeti in Tanzania, and Kenya’s Masai Mara. So which is the best option?
Whilst a safari in either is never going to be a bad decision, there are some significant differences which are important to take into consideration when planning a safari to East Africa.
The Great Plains Of East Africa – Size And Landscape
Whilst situated in different, but neighboring countries, the Serengeti National Park and Masai Mara National Reserve (and bordering Conservancies) are part of the same continuous eco system, each with its own character and diverse landscapes.
The Serengeti National Park dwarfs the Masai Mara Reserve, extending over 14,750 sq. km compared to the 1,510 sq. km of it more compact neighbour.
The word Serengeti is said to be derived from the word ‘Seringit’, used in the Maasai language to describe endless plains and it is easy to see why. This is a land of endless grassland savannas, interrupted by occasional rocky kopjes and dense riverine thickets. Woodlands are found in the central and western sectors, whilst the northern Serengeti is characterized by rolling hills and kopjes. At the edges of the open plains, forested ridges and hills complete the scene. Major permanent water sources, crucial to game viewing patterns, are limited to the Grumeti River in the west, the Seronera River in the centre, and the Mara River in the north.
It is often thought that the Masai Mara is named after the famous red cloth-clad tribesmen, but the name also finds its roots in the Maa language. ‘Mara’ means spotted or dotted, a reflection of the expansive open grasslands dotted with small shrubs and the iconic Tortilis acacia trees, and further dissected by areas of riverine woodland. Life-sustaining water for the wildlife is held year-round by the Mara and Talek Rivers.
It is the diverse habitat of the eco system which allows so many species to co-exist, making the Serengeti and Masai Mara two of Africa’s most incredible wildlife viewing destinations. Given its vast size, however, the Serengeti does offer more varied landscapes and a little more of that feeling of endless space.
The Great Migration
Mention East Africa and the Great Migration is sure to be one of the first things that comes to mind. This extraordinary mass of over one million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebras and gazelles, undertakes an annual migratory circuit through the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem, following the rains in search of fresh grazing.
This bucket-list wildlife spectacle can be experienced in both the Serengeti and the Masai Mara, but knowing where to go at which time of year is crucial (and even with decades of experience planning migration safaris and travelling to East Africa, ever changing climate patterns can disrupt the wildlife, and migration movements vary slightly from year to year).
The ‘migration season’ is shorter in the Masai Mara, with the herds arriving here from July and staying through to October. In contrast, there is a much longer window of opportunity in the Serengeti where they can technically be seen at any time of year; but understanding the impact of the time of year, the location of the camps and the differing wildlife viewing experiences is crucial when making your decision.
For an in depth look at the seasons and migration movements, you can read our specialist Great Migration page here. But for an overview of the highlights of the Great Migration here are our inside tips on which is the best area to stay:
The Calving Season
The nutrient-rich short grass plains of the southern Serengeti host the migration’s calving season which takes place from around late January and through February. This grazing paradise witnesses the birth of thousands of wildebeests and during this time the endless plains can be dotted with animals spread out as far as the eye can see. While the calves are quick to stand and can even run with their mothers in under 30 minutes of being born, they remain highly vulnerable, and this is a time of plenty for the resident predators. Lion, cheetah and hyaena, followed closely by scavengers such as jackal and ever-present vultures, all take their opportunity when possible. Whilst a harsh reminder of how tough life in the bush can be, this is a superb time to witness dramatic interaction between predators and prey.
River Crossings
The most iconic visual of the Great Migration is that of the famous river crossings when the animals plunge across the swirling waters of the Mara River in their continuous search for new pastures. These epic scenes can potentially be witnessed from July through to October in the far northern Serengeti and further north still inside the Masai Mara, as the Mara River flows through both these areas. Arriving on the northern plains of the Serengeti from early July onwards, some of the wildebeest remain on the Serengeti plains but many more will congregate on the riverbanks and eventually take a leap of faith as they enter the waters, in crossings that can last anywhere from several minutes to several hours.
The crossings are fraught with danger from the first step – some animals get trampled as they tumble down the steep embankments whilst the young and weak can be swept away by the strong currents into the jaws of the waiting crocodiles. Those that successfully reach the far side then have to run the gauntlet of lions and leopards, hiding in the undergrowth, waiting to ambush any stragglers.
With designated viewing points in both the Masai Mara and the Serengeti the crossings are a spectacle that can be witnessed from either side of the border.
A note on the Great Migration: the migration is undoubtedly an incredible natural event to witness, but it can come with a downside in terms of how busy prime migration spots have become, in particular the river crossing viewing points. Any visit should be undertaken knowing that is increasingly difficult to experience the migration herds, particularly in peak season, without coming across plenty of other tourists as well. Outside peak season, the herds can be more difficult to predict in terms of exact location, but the upside is the chance to see them without other vehicles and the Serengeti offers the best chance for this. See more in the section below – Escaping the Crowds in the Serengeti and Masai Mara.
Wildlife Of The Serengeti And Masai Mara
Aside from the massed herds of the migration, both the Serengeti and the Masai Mara boast an impressive diversity of resident game including elephant, giraffe, buffalo, hippo, crocodile, a wide range of antelopes and predators including lion, leopard, cheetah, spotted hyena and jackal. Wild dogs are occasionally seen on the fringes, and smaller cats such as serval, African wild cat and caracal are common, but harder to see. However, the smaller area of the Masai Mara leads to a greater concentration of animals, often resulting in more regular and guaranteed sightings. The birdlife in both areas is extraordinary with 470 recorded species in the Masai Mara and close to 500 in the Serengeti.
Accessibility
Being under an hour by light aircraft from Nairobi makes the Masai Mara very easy and affordable to reach, and therefore an enticing prospect for anyone considering a shorter safari. The Serengeti involves a little extra travelling, and is usually accessed via Kilimanjaro International Airport, either by road via a stopover at the Ngorongoro Crater (southern plains from December to March) or by light aircraft (western and northern Serengeti from June to October).
Which Is Better For Escaping The Crowds?
Both the Serengeti National Park and the Masai Mara Reserve have challenges surrounding the management of high numbers of tourists visiting the areas. In peak season, the unregulated number of vehicles can result in crowded wildlife sightings which are both unpleasant to witness and can interfere with the natural behaviour of the wildlife. In either area, it is essential to book with a reputable operator who will ensure you have an experienced guide to keep away from high vehicle numbers wherever possible.
Due to the Serengeti’s sheer size, overcrowding here only tends to occur in certain hotspots (especially around the migration in peak seasons and at river crossing points, as mentioned above, and in the busier central Seronera area). Outside of these areas, there is plenty of space to enjoy the feeling of wilderness and to have superb wildlife sightings all to yourself.
Both the Serengeti National Park and the Mara Reserve, however, also have protected areas around their boundaries, where an exclusive safari experience is possible.
The Masai Mara’s private conservancies are particularly fantastic for offering prime wildlife-focused safaris, together with far lower (and regulated) visitor volumes and fewer camps. These conservancies are also operated in conjunction with the Maasai communities who own the land and are frequently held as thriving examples of sustainable eco-tourism that protects wildlife, while empowering local communities. There is absolutely no compromise on the quality of the wildlife viewing here as the animals roam freely between the Reserve and the Conservancies, so you really can enjoy a more exclusive safari experience. Whilst the safari experience is ‘exclusive’ there is also a great range of accommodation to suit different budgets.
There are also a couple of private conservancies bordering the Serengeti National Park, which offer a very exclusive experience, but these generally come with top levels of comfort and are priced accordingly. The Singita Grumeti Reserves (Singita Faru Faru Lodge and Sabora Tented Camp) are one such example, with superb wildlife sightings matched with ultra luxurious accommodation.
Activities
The focus of a safari in either destination will be on game drives, but additional activities can also be included subject to the camp and its location. Over recent years more areas within the Serengeti National Park have opened up for walking, be that a short nature walk or a multi-day walking trail with a private mobile camp. If you’re really seeking to escape into the wilderness and explore on foot, then the Serengeti has some excellent options.
The conservancies that border the Masai Mara Reserve and the Serengeti National Park have more flexibility and in addition to walking, one can also enjoy night drives, fly camping and bush dinners. Several camps in the Mara Conservancies (Naboisho Camp or Kicheche Valley Naboisho for example) offer the chance for exceptional prime wildlife viewing by game drives, complemented by additional activities, making a wonderful all round safari experience.
Hot air balloon flights are a magically serene way to experience the vast plains of East Africa, gliding silently along at first light. These can be experienced from both destinations, and from most camps – if this is a particular ‘must do’, speak to your safari specialist and they can ensure to include a camp from which balloon flights are accessible.
Cultural Experiences
Aside from the wildlife, the traditions and lifestyle of the famed Maasai people have long held a fascination for travellers. Not only does a stay in the Masai Mara offer the opportunity to visit an authentic Masai village, but the chances are that your guide and most of the staff in camp will be Maasai and all too keen to share their culture, adding a wonderful dimension to your stay. Many of the camps support projects in the local communities, some of which are possible to visit during a stay in the Mara, offering further insight into the daily lives and challenges caed by the Maasai.
The Serengeti is not without its opportunities for cultural interaction, although due its size, the location of your camp will depend on how accessible human settlements are. Mwiba Lodge and Serian’s Serengeti South, to the south west of the National Park, offer exclusive safari experiences, and excellent opportunities for walking and fly-camping with Hadzabe bushmen, or visiting a local Datoga village.
Safari Lodges, Tented Camps And Mobile Camps
Throughout both the Serengeti and the Masai Mara there is a huge range of safari accommodation to choose from. Whether you’re looking for the most sophisticated of lodges, or the simplest of fly camp, there are options to suit all preferences.
Almost all camps in the Masai Mara are permanent, so stay in the same place year round. Accommodation in the Masai Mara tends to lean towards the more ‘authentic’ style of tented camp, rather than lodge-style accommodation, and this can range from the wonderfully sophisticated (such as the Relais & Châteaux Mara Nyika Camp) to simple but comfortable bush camps (Offbeat Mara and Kicheche Bush Olare are firm favourites).
The Serengeti, meanwhile, offers an even wider range of accommodation, so if you’re looking for an opulent safari lodge, or a lodge with more conventional five star facilities, or at the other end of the scale, a true adventure under canvas, then Tanzania may be the best option. Singita Sasakwa Lodge is one of the most sophisticated lodges in East Africa. If you’re looking for a more immersive safari experience, the Serengeti is also home to plenty of ‘mobile’ safari camps – most of which follow the movements of the migration but don’t actually move during your stay (Nomad Tanzania’s Serengeti Safari Camp is one of the original mobile camps to establish in the Serengeti and it’s still one of the best).
Best Time To Visit
The dry season from June through until October is traditionally considered to be the peak time to visit East Africa both in terms of the weather (dry) and wildlife viewing (prolific), and this is the time to witness the dramatic river crossings and the migration herds in the Masai Mara and northern Serengeti.
However, the early months of the year (January to March) should also be considered as the southern plains of the Serengeti will be playing host to those vast numbers of wildebeest. And if you’re keen to avoid the busier migration areas, in Kenya and the northern Serengeti these months are a time of plenty with fantastic resident game and many newborns, and fewer other tourists.
Value For Money
Tanzania has traditionally always been a more expensive option than Kenya, but recent years have seen increasing prices in Kenya, which have closed that gap. However, the Masai Mara has more seasonal variations when it comes to pricing and can subsequently offer better value for money, particularly outside of migration season.
Summary
Whilst fundamentally part of the same eco system there are significant differences between the Masai Mara and the Serengeti. The scale of the Serengeti is breathtaking and offers a greater variety of landscapes and a true sense of enormity, whereas the more compact Masai Mara holds greater concentrations of wildlife making it, in my opinion, arguably the best game viewing destination in Africa.
If you really can’t decide between the two locations, and have the time available, you could comfortably combine both regions in one safari holiday. This is particularly easy due to excellent cross border flight connections allowing you to game drive in the Serengeti in the morning and have sunset drinks on the Masia Mara plains that same afternoon!
