The Mahale Mountains located in the far west of Tanzania is one of the most beautiful and magical places in Africa to visit. The forested slopes of this remote national park tumble onto sandy beaches which meet the clear, turquoise waters of Lake Tanganyika, giving you a paradise island feel. The habitat is stunning and diverse with a mixture of rainforest, grasslands at higher level, miombo woodland, bamboo and montane forests supporting a wide range of fauna. Most notably, the park protects the largest known population of eastern chimpanzees which flourish with the sheer size and remoteness of their habitat.
Getting to the Mahale Mountains – not for the faint hearted!
Given its remote location, travel to the park is long (and expensive) with only two light aircraft flights from Arusha or the Serengeti to Mahale a week. There are also two flights a week which link Mahale with southern Tanzania. A journey to this far-flung destination takes the best part of a day (with stops). That said, it’s a fantastic journey with stunning views as you soar over the Serengeti, a stop in Tabora (to re-fuel, stretch legs and take a comfort break!), a possible stop in Katavi National Park and then over the majestic peaks to the landing strip on the edge of Lake Tanganyika. On arrival into the Mahale bush airstrip, which is just north of the National Park and surrounded by rural villages, you walk a short distance through ‘local life’ before climbing on board a motorized traditional dhow for an hour’s scenic transfer along the shoreline with spectacular views of the forest and mountains to your wilderness awaiting.
The chimp experience – everything you need to know
In the Mahale Mountains, everything is on ‘Mahale Time’ including the chimpanzee trekking. No 5am wake up calls, but a very civilized 7am breakfast before heading off for your trek at around 8am once the chimps have been located by the skilled trackers (who did get the 5am wake up call!). You set off from your lodge on foot or boat (a boat if the location to access the chimps cannot be reach by path from the lodge as there are no roads or vehicles in the park). You are accompanied by a guide and ranger and trek for anything between 20 minutes and several hours depending on time of year, availability of food and therefore location of the chimps.
From around July, the dry season, the chimps start to descend from the higher slopes as fruit ripens on lower slopes. They generally remain on the lower slopes through until December and the early rainy season, so trekking over these months is less challenging. It’s also not unusual for the chimps to even come into the lodge grounds at this time of year! From January the chimps disperse into smaller groups and start to head back up to the higher slopes and so a good level of fitness is required in particular if visiting in the first half of the year.
Once you reach the chimps, you are permitted to spend an hour with them. The chimps are very relaxed and although chimping rules request that you keep 10 metres away, the chimps haven’t read the rule book, and can casually walk in your direction, right past you or even tapping you to move if you (unintentionally) get in their way. The guides and rangers are incredibly passionate and knowledgeable about individual chimps and can explain their behaviour and interactions, which adds to the overall exhilarating experience.
The best place to stay in the Mahale Mountains
The best place to stay is without a doubt Nomad Tanzania’s Greysyoke Mahale. An upmarket lodge full of character with the most idyllic setting nestled on the edge of the forest with stunning views of the pristine beach and crystal clear waters of Lake Tanganyika – you really feel as though you are a castaway in paradise . The accommodation is constructed from natural materials and fitting with the environment with open fronted ‘bandas’ which allow you to hear the water lapping against the sandy beach and the breeze as it rustles through the forest. The iconic main area offers an atmospheric setting for communal dining around a large family style table, with panoramic views of the lake. In the evening, you can walk along the beach to the shabby-chic beach bar ‘on the rocks’ which is the perfect spot for sundowners.
Mountain waterfalls, sugar white beaches and crystal waters
The chimpanzee trekking is without a doubt a highlight of the Mahale Mountains, but there is so much more to this destination that captivates you. Boat trips are a wonderful way to relax after a long morning’s trekking, letting you take in the scenery of the lake and back drop of dramatic mountains. Additional activities include traditional style fishing, birdwatching along the shoreline, or simply relaxing and soaking up the pinch-yourself setting. If you have energy for more hiking, there’s the opportunity to take guided walks through the forest where you might see more primates (baboons and colobus monkeys) as well as the rare blue duiker, butterflies and an array of birdlife, and there are some lovely waterfalls where you can enjoy a refreshing dip in the water.
Is the travel effort and cost all worth it?
In short, yes. The Mahale Mountains is more than just an incredible chimpanzee experience – which in itself is worth the journey. Visiting Mahale is an exciting adventure, allowing you to access a hidden wilderness paradise, untouched by mass tourism. Admittedly, the cost won’t suit everyone’s pocket, but for those who can stretch the budget and who are looking for a world-class wildlife experience in an utterly magical, far-from-the-madding-crowd setting, it’s hard to beat. To experience the Mahale Mountains is a delight and a privilege.
